Outback Info (Private Seiten) © seit 1999

Geikie Gorge

In Western Australia' s far north Kimberley Region, the flood waters of the Fitzroy River have carved the 30-metre-deep Geikie Gorge through the limestone at the junction of the Oscar and Geikie Ranges.

During the wet season, the Fitzroy River rises about 16.5 metres, staining the walls of the gorge and flooding the national park with seven metres of water.

In the dry, between April and November, the river transforms itself into a quiet stream strung out beneath the towering cliffs of the Devonian reef.

Unlike modern reefs—which are built by corals—algae and a group of now extinct lime-secreting organisms built the bulk of this reef.

Ranging from atolls of a few hectares to hundreds of square kilometres, the reef platforms grew close to sea level, rising 200 metres or more above the sea floor.

As the ocean floor slowly subsided over the 50 million years of the Devonian period, the reef-building organisms were able to keep pace, building up and up until, in places, the reef became more than two kilometres thick.

The limestone ranges, formed from the ancient barrier reef, wind across the country between 50 and 100 metres above the surrounding plains, in much the same way that the reef would have reared above the Devonian sea floor. From the air, it's easy to imagine that the sea has just withdrawn, leaving the reefs uncovered.

Here, layers of fossils and the limestone strata of an ancient reef are exposed in cross section, showing glimpses of life in the Devonian period before reptiles or mammals evolved.

Wildlife
The forest fringing the river includes cadjeput, river gums, freshwater mangroves, native figs and pandanus. The tropical reed forms dense stands on the banks, while wild passionfruit scrambles over trees and shrubs.

Many tropical aquatic lifeforms live in the waters of the Fitzroy River. The striped archer fish shoots down insects in flight or from foliage overhanging the river by squirting a thin jet of water. Freshwater crocodiles bask on the riverbanks. They eat frogs, fish and birds and are not generally considered to be a threat to humans if left undisturbed.

The thick vegetation of paper-barked cadjeputs and river gums supports a colony of fruit bats and a rich variety of bird life. Among the shrubs and reeds are birds such as the reed warbler and the rare lilac-crowned wren. The great bower-bird can be seen foraging nearby.

Waterbirds include the darter, white egret, little pied cormorant and the white-breasted sea-eagle—a species not often found so far from the sea.

Aboriginal Heritage and Cultural Tours
Geikie Gorge gets its unusual name from Sir Archibald Geikie, the Director General of Geological Survey for Great Britain and Ireland when the gorge was given its European name in 1883.

The traditional owners, the Bunaba, call the gorge Darngku. It's here that a blind Aboriginal elder drowned in the 'Dreaming', after leaving his tribe to go wandering. The old man sighed and sneezed before he sank to the bottom for the last time. It's said his sighs can still be heard when the gorge is quiet.

This and other stories can be heard on a boat tour giving visitors an Aboriginal perspective of the park and its plants and animals.

The Department of Conservation and Land Management (CALM) and the Darlngunaya Aboriginal Corporation—representing the traditional owners of Geikie Gorge—are jointly operating half-day tours (including lunch and walks) for up to 12 people.

Bunaba guides have been trained by CALM to lead the tours and they have been authorised by their people to take passengers to places not normally accessible to the general public.

DAC also owns and operates Darlngunaya Backpackers, a hostel offering budget accommodation at the historic Fitzroy Crossing Post Office.

The group is expanding its involvement in Kimberley tourism by linking the accommodation side of their operation with the Geikie Gorge boat tour, and other tours in the region.

The Darlngunaya guides spent four months with the rangers at Geikie Gorge planning and preparing the new tour and helping with CALM's existing boat tour. Details of the two tours are listed under Things you need to know.

The project is giving Bunaba people opportunities to develop and manage tourism-based enterprises in cooperation with CALM, while sharing their heritage with visitors keen to learn more about the Aboriginal history of the Kimberley.

CALM also runs a one-and-a-half-hour tour up to three times a day (depending on the level of demand) and our rangers give a comprehensive commentary on the geology, wildlife and history of the area.

Things You Need To Know

Where is it?
Geikie Gorge National Park is 20 kilometres (20 minutes) from Fitzroy Crossing (nearest town) and 280 kilometres from Derby.

Park opening times:
Open 6.30 am–6.30 pm (April–November) for day visits. Entry restricted during wet season (December–March) when Fitzroy River floods.

Facilities:
Toilets, water, gas barbecues, information shelter, tour boats, access for disabled people. Due to the wet season floods, the above facilities are only available between April to November. The gorge is a day use area only so camping is not allowed. There are a range of facilities at nearby Fitzroy Crossing.

What to do:
Sightseeing, photography, walking, nature observation. The east bank is a sanctuary zone for wildlife, no unsupervised entry to this area. Freshwater crocodiles do live in the gorge, although they are not usually a danger to people. Parents should take care of small children.

• Reef Walk
  Pleasant walk along the base of one of the gorge walls, 3 kilometres return, moderate difficulty, allow 1 hour. Best early morning and late afternoon. Carry drinking water, and avoid climbing the reef wall as the terrain is extremely rough and dangerous.

   

• River Walk
  Easy 20-minute return walk along the banks of the Fitzroy River to the Sandbar, a popular fishing and swimming place. Swimming is at your own risk. Beware of submerged snags and logs, avoid diving into water.

   

• Boat Tours
  The CALM boat tour is 1.5 hours duration. Departure times are 0800,1100 and 1500. During early and late season (April/May and September/November) tours may be less frequent because of lower demand. Check with rangers to confirm on (091) 91 5121 or (091) 91 5112. Boat tickets on sale 20 minutes prior to cruise at gorge. No booking required for individuals, but tour groups and coaches need to book well in advance on (091) 91 5121 or fax (091) 91 5165.

  The Darngku Aboriginal Cultural Tour departs 0815, Monday–Friday, April–October. Tickets must be booked through the Fitzroy Crossing Tourist Bureau on (091) 91 5355.

   

• Private Boats
  During the dry season, April–November, boats and canoes are permitted access to the gorge after 1630. You must notify rangers before launching your boat.